Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber

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Roper shakes out essence and grit for any climber with half a heart who was or is young, crazy, limber and passionate, and for whom walls devoid of routes beckon like a goddess. Using personal recollection, letters, articles and interviews, Roper portrays climbers as a vivid blend of foibles, talent and drive:. He carried out publicity stunts, seiged and over-bolted. And in an act of heroism, Harding gave up all his precious water supply to Chuck Pratt and Yvon Chouinard on the fifth dehydrating day on Mount Watkins. In fresh, frank prose, Roper reveals the factions and cliques and abundant stupid behavior.

Northern and southern California climbers stayed in separate parts of the campground. Northerners regarded southerners as too clean, polite and square.

Climbers shoplifted at the local grocery store, stole into church to sleep, overstayed camping limits. Roper himself once brought part of the skull of a dead climber into the coffee shop to shock companions. And for every juvenile or petty tale, Roper gives us one incredible, pathetic or tragic. Roper tells us, for instance, that all the climbing deaths in the sixties came not during the bang of climbing but the whimper of rappelling.

Yet at the same time, he shows us how moving and maddening were some of the whimpers. Jim Madsen rappelled from the top of El Capitan to rescue Pratt and Chris Fredericks, only to pop off the end knot and crash feet to his death. Younger "wannabees" were pretty well ostracized, and women? Well, women climbers really didn't know how to climb!

Living on next to no money, sleeping under a rock, hiding from the rangers, confronting bears, scarfing food in the cafeteria and coffee shop, stealing tips from the restaurant tables were all "normal" for many of these gifted lunatics. Many of them were my friends, and a good number of them haven't survived to present day and I miss them. Pratt, Fredericks, Sacherer, Roper, and numerous others; they were certainly unique individuals. This was a heart rending book for me--reminding me of days gone by and the experiences I had in Yosemite.

I was a Yosemite climber in the 's and met a number of the major characters Frost, Chouinard, Robbins, Harding.

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Steve Roper has done an incredible job of capturing the ephemeral facts and essential spirit of the climbers and times. He is frank about their weaknesses: We had been taught the correct values at home, yet we rebelled against everything," pg , referring to the troubles they caused in the Vally. He is honest about his own failures, both in his own character and on climbs he could not do. He is enthusiastic about the successes of the pioneers and freely gives credit to those who deserve it. Steve not only gives you facts, he gives you feelings and insights.

You can't get better history than this. The only criticism I have is that the book ends. I could have kept reading for many more days. If you want to FEEL what it was like, buy this book. I will bet you can't read it only once. Kindle Edition Verified Purchase. Steve Roper does a fine job chronicling the evolution of man and rock climbing in the golden era of climbing. His prose is easy to follow and enjoyable. Thank you for taking the time to put it all down. If you are a fan of climbing and mountaineering literature this one is a must!

You will find yourself constantly reminded of the legendary people and events of the 's and '70s and what it truly meant to climb the big ones at Yosemite. Terrific history of Yosemite climbers filled with insight, anecdotes, facts, and beautifully detailed historic routes and climbs! A mandatory read for any climbing enthusiast! If you are a mountain history buff. If you are a mountain history buff, a California climber, or just love a good read about something delightfully random, this is a must read.

Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber" is a great read for anyone interested in the history of rockclimbing in the valley. As I went through the book I was thinking back to the days I invaded Yosemite's walls and staying in Camp 4 in the late 80's. I actually pulled out my old guide book and looked at the beta on some of the historic climbs that I never did climb. Roper's book started to make me think about taking a trip back to the valley to ascend some of those routes. See all 27 reviews. Amazon Giveaway allows you to run promotional giveaways in order to create buzz, reward your audience, and attract new followers and customers.

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Open Preview See a Problem? Thanks for telling us about the problem. Return to Book Page. Preview — Camp 4 by Steve Roper. Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber by Steve Roper. In the s, California's Yosemite Valley was the center of the rockclimbing universe. It was the perfect place for young nonconformists to drop out, hang loose, and channel their energy into climbing the valley's largely untouched walls and cracks. Many of these "misfits" were the finest rock climbers in the world.

Some even shaped the future of the sport. And by the end In the s, California's Yosemite Valley was the center of the rockclimbing universe.

Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber

And by the end of the decade, climbers from around the globe were coming to Camp 4 - gathering spot for the creators of the "Golden Age" of Yosemite climbing - to see what all the fuss was about. Climber and author Steve Roper spent most of ten years living in Yosemite Valley with its intriguing inhabitants. Camp 4 is his take on the era's top climbers and the sometimes whimsical influences behind their achievements. Paperback , pages.

Editorial Reviews

Published December 3rd by Mountaineers Books first published September 1st To see what your friends thought of this book, please sign up. To ask other readers questions about Camp 4 , please sign up. Lists with This Book.

May 12, Mike rated it liked it. This was an interesting book to read while on a recent trip to Yosemite--an engaging account of an important chapter in the history of the Valley.

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