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Just north to the hall of dancers, there is one of the most unique and mysterious structures. It is a two storey structure, the only one of its kind in Angkor click here for photo. Furthermore, it is the only example of a major building in Angkor with cylindrical columns. It is said to have housed the "Sacred Sword" "Preah Khan".
To the east of the hall of dancers is the East Gopuram of the third enclosure.
It is the southern wing of this Gopuram that bears the celebrated couple of silk-cotton trees mentioned above, one dead, one alive, with their roots at the same time destroying and, becoming a part of the gallery columns, supporting the roof of the sacred monument. A roaring lion in front of the gallery's south gate protects the incredible scene of marriage of wood and stone, emblematic of Angkor. Halfway along the path leading from this east gate of the third enclosure t that of the fourth one, there is a structure to the left considered to be a Vahnigriha, a "Fire-House", nowadays also called Dharmasala "teaching-hall" click here for photo.
Vahnigrihas were a kind of post relay stations along the mainroads of the empire. The outer laterite wall of Preah Khan fourth enclosure bears 72 Garudas, at 50 m intervals. They are 5 m tall, at the corners even taller.
Visnu's mythical sun-eagles hold Nagas in their claws. A fourth enclosure, instead of the common three of a Khmer temple, indicates that the outer walls served a second purpose, they were city walls as well. The avenues in front of the east and of the west entrances are flanked by rows of richly decorated pillars click here for photo. Each entrance has a causeway over the moat with Naga balustrades click here for photo , smaller but similar to those at the future capital Angkor Thom, another hint that at Preah Khan the city element was more significant than at other Angkor temples. We offer a separate page with image gallerie for Preah Khan, you can see 48 photos, x dots, with slideshow function.
Many not all of Jayavarman's buildings have face towers, a second landmark of Angkor besides the five towers of Angkor Wat. Like the nearby complex of Ta Prohm, Banteay Kei is one of those face-tower-temples. The huge face carvings are additions from the early 13th century. You can see four colossal Buddha faces looking into the four directions at Banteay Kdei's four entrance Gopuras of its outer enclosurte walls, they are located at the four cardinal points, as usual.
But the Buddha faces are not quite as large as the famous ones of the Angkor Thom city gates and the numerous of the Bayon temple. Banteay Kdei is a kind of first example in a negative sense, too. The construction work was hastily done, not as precise as at the Angkor Wat any more. And the sandstone was of poorer quality. Inaccuracy and crumbling led to much of the deterioration visible today. One meaning of today's name "Banteay Kdei" "citadel of the cells" could be a reminder of the school function, meaning the novices' cells in an education centre.
But more probably, the name alludes to the many rooms inside the temple proper. Only the vicinity of the stone monument served as the campus. Residence buildings for Buddhist monks and novices were made of wood and are not existing any more.
Banteay Kdei remained to be an abode for monks over the centuries. This is why it is not as overtaken by the jungle as the neighbouring Ta Prom. Only at the back of the temple proper its western side you can see an impressive pituresque tree breaking up the temple surface and growing on top of it. The outer temple wall is built of laterite and measures metres from east to west and metres from north to south. The four entrance gates with face towers mentioned above are made of sandstone.
A cruciform terrace in front of the first temple halls is decorated with Naga balustrades, they are in a sound condition. A rectangular building between entrance called Gopuram III East and temple proper was the hall of the dancers, as in the case of Preah Khan.
It is only slightly smaller than that at Preah Khan, but has many more pillars. They are decorated with bas reliefs showing dancing single or paired Apsaras. The group of stone buildings, including the hall of dancers and the temple proper, is surrounded by an inner temple moat measuring metres by metres. The temple seems not to be built in accordance with one initial ground plan.
More and more corridor galleries were added later on, connecting the 13 towers. This resulted in the confusing labyrinthic arrangement of halls. But it is still less complex than the floor plans of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan later on. Anyway, the arrangement of the 13 towers is strictly symmetrical. The central tower is surrounded by four towers in the cardinal points and four more in the corners of the inner first enclosure, forming altogether three rows of three towers in regular distances. Four additional Gopuram are in the cardinal points of the second enclosure. Inside a corridor slightly to the north of the central tower there is a relief scene above a doorway, depicting the assaults of Mara, aimed to disturb the meditation of the Buddha to prevent him from attaining enlightment.
But the Buddha remained unwavering.
The scene is an allegory for the triumph of virtue over evil and may have served as a symbol of the victory of Jayavarman VII over the Cham invadors. His shift to Buddhism is sometimes explained as means to replace the former religion of the defeated and now restored Khmer empire by a new powerful religion not connected to that defeat. This is one reason why so many faces of Buddha sculptures are damaged or missing in Banteay Kdey.
Additionally, as in the case of Preah Khan and many smaller temples, art theft during the years of civil war contributed to the destruction. It was located slightly north to the east-west axis of Preah Khan and the "Northern Baray" called Jayatataka with its central sanctuary, the Neak Pean. It lies at the foot of the embankment. There was a stele in Preah Khan that probably mentions Ta Som, this is how the temple's original Sanskrit name was identified: The same inscription says it was home of 24 deities.
It is a typical structure of the era of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the monuments with face towers, but of smaller scale than at Angkor Thom. Ta Som's Buddha faces are on the Gopurams at the two entrances from the west and east. They mark the outer third enclosure, measuring m by m, which may have been a later addition from the reign of Indravarman II in the first half of 13th century. The eastern face tower is one of the most photographed Khmer monuments.
For today's visitor starting at the car park it is at the opposite end of complex. It is crowned by a superb example of Angkor's world-famous stone-cracking trees, a quite dramatic sight. The strangle fig still stands upright, but it died in the s, this means it does not grow any more, and because of decomposition it will fall down one day, in a not too far away future. The second enclosure is surrounded by a moat. Again, both gates, from the east and from the west, are Gopuram towers. Ta Som's temple proper, consisting of laterite galleries inner enclosure includes a cruciform Prasat sanctuary and two libraries built of sandstone.
It is much like a miniature version of Ta Prohm, 30 m long and 20 m wide. Many of the carvings are in sound condition. They are of better quality craftsmanship than other Bayon-style reliefs that usually appear to be worked out more hastily. The Devata Apsara carvings show an uncommon individuality compared to other contemporary Khmer temples. A former pediment now on the ground to the south of the temple proper inside the second enclosure has a huge and lovely carving depicting the Bodhisattva Lokeshvara.
The south pediment of the north Gopuram inside the inner enclosure shows a smaller Lokeshvara, at whose feet are four praying figures on lotos buds. In the south-west section of the temple's courtyard first enclosure you can see more excellent carvings on the ground and a pillar with a peg on the top.
The symbolism of it is unknown. Similar stelae are found in contemporary temples, e. At this romantic temple you can still listen to the sounds of animals instead of clicking cameras or noisy groups of amused travellers. The compound is of medium size, 55 metres long and 47 metres wide. Many of the structures in the temple court have collapsed, and it is difficult to walk around over stones and boulders.
Nevertheless, this is exactly why Ta Nei is an extraordinary Khmer temple experience and worth a visit. You will discover lintel carvings in a pretty sound condition here, as they were less effected by the anti-Buddhist vandalism during the Hindu resurgence under Jayavarman VIII than those at other Bayon style temples. Some of Ta Nei's stone carvings depict quite unusual topics.
For example, on the north pediment of the Prasat there can be seen a person on a boat giving a blessing, flying figures carry parasols. Inside the exterior counted "third" enclosure there is a moat surrounding the core compound. It measures 80 m by 60 m. The galleries forming the inner "first" enclosure are 30 m from east to west and 25 m from north to south, they connect small towers in the corners and Gopurams in the cardinal directions.
There is a pillar with a peg motif of unknown function in the southwestern part of the courtyard. Similar stelae were found in other Bayon style temples, e. Banteay Thom is completely untouristed, due to its remote location. It is difficult to find and the access path is often flooded. Banteay Thom's main entrance is from the east, as usual. A second gate is at the west. Only the eastern gate is preceded by a typical cruciform terrace.
This outer East Gopuram is of impressive size and crowded with Bayon style ornamental and figurative decoration, male Dvarapala guardians and Devatas Apsaras figures in particular. Regrettably, many Devata reliefs of Banteay Thom were rudely damaged recently. Banteay Thom is a victim of looting.
After the tour we climbed up to this really high point may not have been very safe and then sat up there and overlooked the ruins, listened to the birds and relaxed. We were there for four days If you have been to Ta Prohm or intend to visit there and fall in love with its mystical nature, then you are going to love Beng Mealea. This is a secluded temple with a similar layout to Angkor Wat, but on a smaller scale and much less well preserved as the jungle has slowly consumed the majority of it's structure.
This temple has some of the most detailed and well preserved carvings in comparison to what is available in Angkor and it is not very heavily visited by tourists due to it's location. We were free to enjoy the magical nature of this tranquil ruined temple without thousands of other tourists. This has to be my favourite temple of all of the Angkor temples, purely for the fact that it was so quiet, yet so well preserved in places which had not been consumed by the jungle. This temple is not for people with mobility issues due to much of the temple being accessed by stairs or the need to climb over rubble to access the interiors, good sturdy footwear should also be considered as sandals or flip flops can be quite uncomfortable with all the clibming you have to do.
What a magical experience though! Me and my wife just returned from a trip to Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. The Cambodian part of the trip included six wonderful days in the Angkor area with our kind local driver, Chhim Seiha, which we found via his personal website. The Beng Mealea temple was the most amazing experience and the funny deceit about the 2 ways of seeing it described below only added to its attractiveness.
As we entered the area we noticed a small boy climbing on the top of the temple. He seemed to be playing hide-and-seek with us. At the same moment, a local guide showed us the "right" direction to investigate the temple: After walking a bit around the temple another local guide showed us the "right" way of climbing through the rubble inside. After following his advice and getting inside we suddenly saw the small boy from before.
This time he was surrounded by a group of other children appearing in front of us. They took care of our "safety" all the way inside. Obviously when we got inside we met all the visitors that used the second way: At the end of the "dangerous" part of the way we met the first local guide that pointed us this way, dividing the tip that was given to the group of kids.
How ingenious and funny! So don't miss the Beng Mealea temple and decide for yourself which way you want to see it, the normal or the "guided". We decided to visit this temple as part of our first trip to Cambodia. We negotiated with our guide - Tek and paid him a bit more.
We drove many miles through unsealed bumpy roads to get to this temple and it was well worth the pain. Angkor Wat did not awe me at all but Beng Mealea did.
The moment you stand in front of the entrance, it gives you this alluring feeling to step inside. The entrance itself alone gives you a hint of what to expect beyong. There were 2 ways of seeing the temple, via the wooden platforms built outside or climbing through the rubble inside. I'm not the adventurous sort but I decided to go the latter. It was not too strenous but good fun yet challenging. A local guide there helped me through too for safety's sake!
You'd be silly to miss this temple if you go to Cambodia. The peace and serenity you get here is unreal. This was my favourite temple out of all the ones we saw. I hope it keeps this way Own or manage this property? Claim your listing for free to respond to reviews, update your profile and much more. All of your saved places can be found here in My Trips.
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Review of Beng Mealea. Ranked 14 of things to do in Siem Reap Province. Reviewed December 20, Smeets P London, United Kingdom.