A cabinet makers guide to veeneering techniques third edition
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If a curve has to be accurate this is the best glue on the market. It can be tinted using water stain powders and the appropriate filler. Many makers use it on veneering, but I think it is too expensive for this type of work, very messy and hard to clean up. With the right filler it is an ideal choice for repairing sloppy or broken tenons or for gluing a length of steel studding in the place of a tenon on contemporary work, although some would say this is sacrilege.
A couple of tips to help when using epoxy glue: The principal in most applications is to apply a layer of glue on both surfaces, wait for around 10 minutes until the glue is touch dry, then place together and apply pressure.
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Usually this type of glue does not need clamping and just pressure pushing the two surfaces together is sufficient. The spray version is now being used in contract fitting of yachts, shop fitting and exhibition stands. Its ease of application means plastic laminates and veneers can be fitted to complex shapes on site. I have tested this type of contact adhesive and while I can see the benefits I find it to be unsuitable for fine work for three main reasons: Its major drawback, however, is longevity, and it has to be said that most of the brands I have used have eventually failed.
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These glues have almost unlimited uses, most commonly in gluing back broken edges or lifting veneer. They are available with different curing times and these can be speeded up using an accelerator which will set it almost instantly. Sprayed with accelerator, the extra-thick version also has a good gap-filling property.
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Put a small amount of the accelerator into the hole before gluing and then spray with the accelerator to set the glue throughout. A slight loss of strength occurs the more glue is used and when using the accelerator. Downsides include its ability to glue skin, the fact that the accelerator, when mixed with the glue, turns white and can only be removed with sanding, and the high cost.
This type of glue expands as a foam when it cures and therefore can push away the bonding surfaces if not clamped sufficiently. It has very little strength when used as a gap filler and will turn skin temporarily black. The stain can be removed when wet with acetone but this chemical can cause skin irritation.
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Electric or gas hot-glue guns which convert glue sticks into a hot, quick-setting glue can be bought in craft shops and general DIY stores, but the strength of the glue is poor and the quick-setting application hinders its use in furniture making. It is however ideal for model making.
The second style is hot-setting glue film which comes in sheets of about a metre wide, available from most veneer suppliers. Very useful for small veneering jobs, it can be set with an iron and a hard roller, but the longevity of the cured glue is questionable. Care must be taken to ensure the glue has been heated adequately to ensure a good bond; also, a change in moisture content in the room can result in bubbles in the veneer.
It is very easy to use and sets instantly. Skip to content [Accesskey '1'].
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