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Pushing pain and panic aside, she began to paddle with one arm, focusing on a single thought: These lessons are born of the collective wisdom of the surf community and are a powerful source of inspiration in the face of extraordinary challenges of everyday life. Jay Moriarity was a big wave surfer whose positive spirit, relentless dedication, and respect for his sport earned him the admiration of the entire surfing world.
Although, he lost his life just one day before his 23rd birthday, he is still an inspiration to not just the surfing community, but to countless people that he met in his life. And how did it become such a worldwide passion, influencing lives around the globe?
In this brilliantly written travel adventure, journalist and surfer Moore visits unlikely surfing destinations —Gaza, West Africa, North England, Berlin, Bali, Japan, Cuba, and Morocco—to give the reader a folk history of surfing. This is a personal sketch for any curious reader of how the modern sport moved around the world and mingled with cultures that either have nothing to do with Hawaii or have strong reasons to resist pop silliness from the First World.
The result is the story of hippies, soldiers, nutcases, and colonialism; a checkered history of the spread of Western culture in the years after World War II. Now, in this high-octane prequel to Savages, Winslow reaches back in time to tell the story of how Ben, Chon, and O became the people they are.
A series of breakneck twists and turns puts the two generations on a collision course, culminating in a stunning showdown that will force Ben, Chon, and O to choose between their real families and their loyalty to one another. Medina Mason is a defiant, awkward newcomer to the affluent beach community of Palos Verdes, California. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth.
The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world. The author of The Encyclopedia of Surfing returns with this definitive anthology of the best-ever writing about surfing, illustrated with classic and cutting-edge photographs and artwork.
A wondrous, uproarious, and surprisingly informative account of a year spend surfing, Caught Insidemarks the arrival of an exuberant new voice of the outdoors. This is Franzie, part Holden Caulfield, part Lolita.
The Daniels Adventure Trilogy [Mr Crash Davis, Mr Joel L Mumey] on AND SURFS UP COMBINED INTO ONE BOOK FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE AND a subscription that delivers hand-picked children's books every 1, 2, or 3 months. a picture book, 'Surf's Up,' illustrated by Daniel Miyares, next month. on an adventure that draws both characters into the pages of a book.
The guys call her Gidget—short for girl midget. Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly pages, with , words and more than rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original.
The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing. People come to Huntington Beach in search of the endless party, the ultimate high, and the perfect wave. Ike Tucker has come to look for his sister and the three men who might have murdered her.
His search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, sadistic surfers, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers. Filled with killer waves and a coast line to break your heart, The Dawn Patrol will leave you gasping for air. The rumors say you must cross Indian land to get there.
They tell of hostile locals and shark-infested waters where waves in excess of thirty feet break a mile from shore. For down-and-out photographer Jack Fletcher, the chance to shoot these waves in the company of surfing legend Drew Harmon offers the promise of new beginnings.
But Drew is not alone in the northern reaches of the state. His young wife, Kendra, lives there with him. Obsessed with the unsolved murder of a local girl, Kendra has embarked upon a quest of her own, a search for truth—however dark that truth may prove to be. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa.
A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter.
Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. For legendary surfer Laird Hamilton, hundred foot waves represent the ultimate challenge.
With inexorable verve, The Wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious. On the wild, lonely coast of Western Australia, two thrillseeking and barely adolescent boys fall into the enigmatic thrall of veteran big-wave surfer Sando. Together they form an odd but elite trio. The grown man initiates the boys into a kind of Spartan ethos, a regimen of risk and challenge, where they test themselves in storm swells on remote and shark-infested reefs, pushing each other to the edges of endurance, courage, and sanity.
But where is all this heading? Venturing beyond all limits—in relationships, in physical challenge, and in sexual behavior—there is a point where oblivion is the only outcome. In , Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. S-T , History , Last Name: A-B , Last Name: Titles Appear In 1 List Each. Richard Olsen and John Witzig. Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders.
Crazy for the Storm: A Memoir of Survival. Live Over the Edge. Surfing the Ends of the Earth. Flagging a list will send it to the Goodreads Customer Care team for review. We take abuse seriously in our book lists. Only flag lists that clearly need our attention. As a general rule we do not censor any content on the site.
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Tom 4 books 10 friends. Mike 79 books 1 friend. Dec 29, Hadn't heard of that Winton book. Cool to find this list. Feb 22, Apr 28, How is it surfer readers! Also had the experience to live in Hawaii for many months, there I judged and rode my bodyboard. Now I am living in central Florida.
I wanted to let you know that I wrote a young adult novel in wish the main characters are all bodyboarders. I am thinking it is the first of its kind. This is a great list! Hope you visit my author page and check it out. The Emerald Mystery Best of wishes Enrique! Search for a book to add a reference. We take abuse seriously in our discussion boards.
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This time I usually get belly laughs and cheers. Julie Gittus Goodreads Author. Rate this book Clear rating 1 of 5 stars 2 of 5 stars 3 of 5 stars 4 of 5 stars 5 of 5 stars. This is Franzie, part Holden Caulfield, part Lolita. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. For legendary surfer Laird Hamilton, hundred foot waves represent the ultimate challenge.
Rate this book Clear rating 1 of 5 stars 2 of 5 stars 3 of 5 stars 4 of 5 stars 5 of 5 stars. Want to Read saving… Error rating book. For the Love by Kelly Slater 4. In Search of Captain Zero: Lawless by Tracey Ward Goodreads Author 4. Tapping the Source by Kem Nunn 3. Making Mavericks by Frosty Hesson 4. A Surfing Life by William Finnegan 4. Surf for Your Life by Mick Fanning 4. Surfing California by Bank Wright 4. Tijuana Straits by Kem Nunn 3. Breath by Tim Winton 3. All for a Few Perfect Waves: Board by David C. Flanagan Goodreads Author 4. Free Days With George: Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: