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Any edition of this book is a joy, but the beautifully illustrated American version, published by Knopf, is particularly special. Elizabeth David came to me somewhat late, in cookery calendar terms.
My mother, a very good cook indeed, had not, to my knowledge, a book of hers anywhere in the house when I was fettling away at the Aga in my early to late teens. Dad's dog-eared EP Veerasawmy paperback for his curries, indeed.
But no Elizabeth David. It was not until I was 21 years old when friends in West Wales gave me a set of her Penguin paperbacks for my birthday, hoping that they may further inspire me in the kitchen of my little restaurant by the sea. Although I had already worked in a French restaurant and eaten in France with my parents, nothing compared to that which I was to learn and devour from French Provincial Cooking.
Here are instructions for Iraqi date-filled pies, Tunisian couscous cakes and quinces in wine. Alyssa Procopio marked it as to-read Feb 02, Grilling charbroiling Roasting traditional Rotisserie Toasting. Elisabeth rated it it was amazing Aug 14, Marnell and Nora M.
Nothing had previously evoked such a sense of place and time with the richest prose. It was and remains, intoxicating. Once firm, this now flat cut is sliced into thick strips, smeared with mustard, beaten egg and coated with breadcrumbs. Gently grilled, or fried till crisp — not 'crispy', a description Elizabeth David abhorred.
This is a remarkably good plate of food. On a summer afternoon at his home in Provence in , the American food writer Richard Olney went to lie down after a light lunch, and never woke up. He was 72, and had led an interesting and fulfilling life his friends included the writer James Baldwin, the poet John Ashbery, and the painter John Craxton. He had also, unlike many people, been able to cook his own last meal. The story goes that when his brothers arrived to arrange the funeral, they found a plate and a glass by the sink.
The plate contained traces of a tomato pilaff; the glass, red wine. The remaining pilaff was in the fridge. The brothers took it out, heated it up, and toasted him before tucking in. This pilaff tells you everything you need to know about Olney. People favour risottos now, but before there was risotto, there was pilaff: If the tomatoes are good and fresh, the oil sufficiently grassy, and the onions just so, this is the food of the gods. Olney was a hugely accomplished and knowledgeable cook, but his mantra was simplicity and, in this sense, he was ahead of the times.
When The French Menu was first published in , its determinedly seasonal approach was considered revolutionary. Four years later, he published Simple French Food, and his reputation was sealed. Some read Olney for his uncompromising style alone. His sentences are longer than a prize pike; his salads are "composed", not tossed. Others like the way he pairs every dish with a wine. But it's his menus that really slay you. Olney lived alone, but he was a generous host, and his friends must have considered themselves truly lucky. Imagine a friend who cooked you sorrel soup, followed by frito misto, pheasant salmis with ceps, and an orange jelly.
Or crayfish mousse, ravioli of chicken breast, roast leg of venison and moulded coffee custard. Or, perhaps best of all, cucumber salad, baked lobster, braised and roasted partridge, and fresh figs with raspberry cream.
With this raspberry cream, we quietly rest our case. This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase.
The Cooking Book Hardcover – October 1, Victoria Blashford-Snell has worked with the elite at Le Cordon Bleu cooking school, and now runs a highly successful catering company. Victoria co-authored DK's Canapes with Eric Treuille. The cookbook that really understands what you need in the kitchen, answering all your culinary questions, from what the finished dish should look like and if it.
All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative. Ian Thomas marked it as to-read Jan 19, Kevin Fairless added it Jan 23, Shameka Olson marked it as to-read Feb 11, Hadi Ghannam added it Apr 15, Silvia-otilia Mihalcea marked it as to-read May 23, Roxanne added it May 31, User marked it as to-read Dec 16, Chinese Vernon is currently reading it Jan 02, James Dungan added it Feb 04, Miriam Carballo is currently reading it Feb 20, Delphine marked it as to-read Mar 02, Dimitar Daskalov added it Mar 05, Blessings Mwenechanya marked it as to-read Mar 23, Shaquea marked it as to-read Apr 02, Angelita Key marked it as to-read Jun 21, Philip Durham marked it as to-read Aug 31, Nonhle marked it as to-read Sep 02, There are no discussion topics on this book yet.
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The bible of the Irish kitchen, back at last by popular demand First published in , All in the Cooking was a popular textbook in Irish schools until well into the s. Easy Food Magazine the book has attained near legendary status over the years. Irish Food Guide Rating: You may also like.