Practical Metal Plate Work - With Numerous Engravings and Diagrams

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Amazon Renewed Refurbished products with a warranty. Amazon Second Chance Pass it on, trade it in, give it a second life. First cut out the back portion Fig. Two straps of metal equal in width to that of the notches a and b are bent over the exposed wire and sunk in the crease iron, and thus form the hinges. Then lift the cover and solder the hinges underneath also; these may be further se- cured with a couple of rivets through each.

Clean with turpentine and whiting, and finish with dry whiting. A pattern for the body is shown by Fig. The difference of radius arises from the fact that the sides of the colander are inclined at 60 degrees to the ground; fur any other in- clination the usual method must be adopted, as explained in the description of the making of a milk saucepan pp. The holes are punched on a block of hardwood, and the burrs flattened and planished ; the edges are then set off for a grooved seam ; the pattern is bent to shape and seamed.

The seam is soldered inside, and on the larger end an edge is set off for the wire. The bottom is cut out, hollowed, and edged to fit the smaller end of the body ; but before solder- ing, a series of circles are marked on the inside, beginning with one in the centre 1 in. This is wired with No. A pair of bow handles is riveted opposite each other at the top, as shown in Fig. Clean with turps and whiting, and polish with Fig. Working edges are additional, and must be allowed for accordingly. Having made the pattern, turn it to shape, solder the seam, set off a wiring edge at the top, and wire with No.

The perforated bottom, which may be hollowed or flat, is edged to shape and soldered on. Pattern for Body of Strainer. For the rim or foot of the strainer, cut a strip of tin to fit the bottom, wire it with No. A japanned wood coffee-pot handle is fitted to the body by means of a strip of tinplate bent to shape and fitted over the shouldered part of the handle, the end of the strip being bevelled to the angle of the strainer. Opposite the handle is a small wire ring, flattened in one part to take a small strip of tin, which is soldered to the strainer.

Patterns for the parts A and b are shown at Fig. In this case the radius of the outer arc is equal to the total slant length of the side of the strainer, and the radius of the inner arc equal to the slant length of b, while the length of the arcs is equal respectively to the circumference of the tops of A and b. B is cut out of perforated tin to the shape of the pattern, and turned over a funnel stake; the seam is then soldered, after which the two parts A and B are soldered together. When extra strength is required, two or three lengths of tinned wire are soldered radially on b, at an equal distance apart.

The handle and ring are secured to the body in the same way as in the other strainer. For the body, cut a sheet of metal 2 ft. The bottom is edged to fit the body, and beaten up, this also being soldered from the inside. A pattern for the spout, which is in two pieces, is shown by Fig. The pieces are bent to shape and soldered at the seams; the larger spout is then fitted to the body and soldered in position. The length of the spout is usually governed by the class of work for which the can is intended.

Where the plants are somewhat out of reach, a longer spout is required; and where in an ele- vated position, an elbow in the spout will be useful. A pattern for the top is shown by Fig. The cross handle is a strip of suitable length and about 1 in. It is fixed in position by cutting two holes in the top with a small sharp chisel, to receive the ends of the handle, which are then soldered inside as well as on the top. Multiply the diameter of the rose by 4, and divide by 3; the result will be the diameter of the pattern.

For example, suppose the rose is 3 in in diameter; then 3 in. The straight lines a b are at right angles to each other. Bend this to shape over a funnel stake, solder the seam, and mark out a disc of metal for the hollowed front, allowing working edges for hollowing and capping on. Before soldering, a series of circles are de- scribed from the centre, inside the hollow, and these are perforated at intervals with a bradawl over a hard block of wood.

The sizes of the per- forations are governed by the particular work for which the rose is intended. When required for small seedings and tender plants, the holes should be very fine. A good plan is to make several roses of different sizes. The stem and the hollow are then. A stay c Fig. Three small hollowed studs of metal are sol- dered to the bottom to raise it from the ground.

The tools for working these are illustrated by Figs. It can be made of tinplate, and a pattern for the body is shown in Fig. Let A B represent the larger diameter and c d the smaller, f g being the slant depth of the body. Join A and b d, and continue the lines until they Fig. Join a E and h e with straight lines to give the required pattern a f b c G d. Working edges are ad- ditional, and should be allowed accordingly. Now pass the metal through the rollers, set off the edges for grooved seams, turn to shape, and groove together. Set off the body thus formed, edges top and bottom in an outward direction, to receive the top rim and the hollowed bottom.

Some nose-tins are made with straight top rims, but it is much better to have them slightly taper. A pattern can easily be obtained by the foregoing method. Wire the top edge with not less than No. The soldering is all done from the inside, thus making a much stronger and neater job. The bottom, which should be hollowed on a hollowing block, is now crease-edged and beaten up.

It should be noted that the top rim is put on before the bottom. A hoop is made of Ij-in. It will be strengthened considerably if a little solder is floated in two or three places underneath. Two loops to receive the straps are made of yViii- round iron, a pattern for which is shown by Fig.

Two holes are punched at a Fig. After cleaning with turps and whiting, and polishing with dry whiting, the strap-loops and the bottom hoop are coated with brunswick black. If copper be preferred on account of its durability, one side, afterwards to be the inside, should be tinned to prevent the action of certain fluids on copper, this action resulting in the formation of deadly poisons. Hence all cooking utensils, etc. The pattern for the cone part is, generally, a semicircle. Sd times to " break '' the metal thoroughly and take out the creases, and then bend it to shape over a funnel stake and solder the seam.

A creased edge is set off the larger diameter, and in it the rim fits tightly. Roll, edge, and wire it, and turn it to shape through rollers or over a round mandrel, solder it, and attach it to the rim. A pattern for the spout is set out as described for the body, Fig. Bend the pattern to shape over a beak-iron, solder the seam, and attach the spout to the funnel as shown in Fig.

If a grid or strainer be required, a disc of metal is finely perforated and soldered inside the funnel. This is then hollowed on a hollowing block with a hollowing hammer. Begin by delivering a series of blows concen- trically round the edge, and alternate these occa- sionally with blows delivered radially and take out the puckers as they occur until the re- quired shape is obtained; then smooth with a smoothing hammer. Success in producing a shape like this is mainly dependent on the skill of the operator. The chief point to be watched is to prevent buckling; should this occur after about a dozen blows, try to take it out as soon as possible by working a circle of blows inside all the others, and then working radially from this circle to the edge.

When the shape is ob- tained, set off a wiring edge and wire the top. Now at the centre of the hollow mark a circle equal in diameter to that of the proposed spout, and cut it out. The spout can then be made as previously described, and an edge set oft the larger end, when the spout is pushed through from the inside and soldered in position.

A strainer and loop can be added if necessary. The bottom is cut from J in. It is hollowed to shape, the hole for the spout is cut, and the piece is creased round the edge and soldered in position. The spout is fixed as in the case of Fig. Assuming that the latter is used, and that the desired capacity is 1 gal. An urn to hold about a gallon will be 9 in. The support is an oblong box-like structure, with the back and front cut out as shown in Fig.

It has a 1-in. Set out a full-size drawing of the article complete, and proceed to get the patterns. Those for the body will consist of two truncated cones. Develop the pattern as shown in Fig.

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In fact, one of the pieces, cut off the end of the pattern, will serve as a template for hollowing the body pieces. Mark the staves, as in Fig. The hoops for the ends will be drawn in the same manner as the body patterns. The centre I Fig. Of course, they only extend from the lid to the support. Solder both bead and knobs. The rim should be tinned all over, and the top and body pieces inside should also be tinned. A hammer with a convex face, and a hardwood block with a slight hollow in it, will be needed.

Place the body pieces, tinned side up, over the hollow, and go evenly all over them. To ascertain if the pieces are sufficiently blocked, turn them roughly till the seams meet, and try the template on. Then, to leave the surface smooth, hammer on a smooth, flat portion of the block. The lid is blocked in the same way. Now turn the body pieces, and solder the seams inside. Tin the insides, solder the tap in, and solder all in position from the inside. Solder a perfor- ated cover on the inside to prevent the tea-leaves passing. Put the two pieces for the body together temporarily by fastening them lightly here and there; keep the seams at the bottom, and mark the hole out for the lid.

Cut a strip of copper about 1 in. To do this a J-in. Leave about a quarter of an inch out at one end, so that when it is turned the pro- jecting piece will cross the seam and fit in the other end. This is for the body rim. Give it the same lap as the rest, and solder it inside; taking Fig.

Full text of "Tinplate work : with numerous engravings and diagrams"

When it is rounded up, put it on the top of the urn and mark the hole off for it. Loose the fastenings, and cut the hole out. Put the pieces together again, and solder them firmly all round. Now solder the rim on the top. Put the support together and fix that on, solder- ing it neatly all round. Then make the hoops and put them on, and there only remains the lid. Take care to clean off all solder on the outside.

The following detailed explanation of the pro- cesses adopted in the making of a simple tin- plate saucepan Fig. Its patterns in sheet metal are shown by Figs. They consist of saucepan body Fig. Referring to the body pattern Fig. The notches are cut at the bottom so that after the seams are put together there shall not be four thicknesses of metal plate. The body will be in two pieces if cut out of single plates, and in one piece if cut out of in.

To afford an example of grooving two pieces together, it is supposed that two plates are to be used. The pattern laid on the tinplate will show that two pieces can be got out of each sheet, leaving a narrow piece, which will do for the rim — thus one plate will cut the body and rim. When many sauce- pans are made at a time, it is best to use the stock shears for cutting out, as two or three tin sheets can be cut at one time, and then only the top one of each lot need be marked. Commence to cut the circle at a, in the direction shown, and the ties then hold the plates together till the cut has been made right round to b; if the cut commenced as shown at b, the ties would be cut off before the circle was completed.

Great care must be taken to get all edges of the bodies quite straight, or trouble will occur when they are being folded in the machine. Having cut out the body parts, pass them through the rollers to break the " grain '' of the metal. Set the front roller so as not to pinch the plates; pass them through six pieces at a time, setting the back roller down till the pieces roll out in a semicircle; turn them over, replace in the rollers, bend down so as to allow the plates to catch under, and pass them through once more ; again turn over and place between the front rollers, raise the back roller two or three turns and pass through, and the plates wall then come out straight.

The bodies are next folded for seaming and wiring. Place the body pieces on the left of the folding machine with the top notches from the workman ; this is especially important when the articles are to be lap-wired, which is the most workmanlike method. Set the machine to fold a trifle over J in. Raise the front roller of the machine to give a close, flat fold; put in body piece, press it close to the guide-plate, raise the handle of the machine, keep the plate in place with the left hand, let it come up as far as it will, and then lower it on to the bench, when the folded piece will slip out easily.

The other end of this piece must be folded on the opposite side Fig. When both pieces are done, they must be folded for wiring with No. Set the compasses to twice the dia- meter of the wire, and at that distance from the edge mark a line on the tin, and set the machine till it just allows the line to disappear, and this time lower the front roller to give a rounding fold.

Raise the handle only half the distance, as for wiring the fold does not require to be brought over so far. Should any piece slip out of the machine, either when folding the seams or the wiring, it must be finished on the hatchet stake; should a folding machine not be available, the whole of the folding must be done on the stake ; when folding the seams in this way, the notches must be kept towards the workman.

Grooving together of the body pieces, which is the next operation, is best done on a bench plate. With the wire fold towards the worker, slip one fold over the other, and with a groover Fig. It may then be closed with light blows of the square- faced hammer. Wiring the bodies is the next operation; this can be done on the bench plate or on the crease iron.

With a roll of wire begin at the right-hand end of the body, J in. The curved shape of the wire assists in keeping it close to the tin, and as the wiring proceeds the body piece may curve to the shape of the wire; but this will not matter, as it has to be rolled. After wiring all along, cut off the wire, leaving at the left-hand end as much extra wire as was left out on the right-hand end.

Pass all the bodies through the jenny to smooth down the wiring, which up to this has a puckered appearance. Begin at the end nearest to the worker; turn the handle and slightly raise the body; the wheels should have grip enough to draw it through; if not, tighten both screws half a turn. The wire will then be neatly tucked in and smoothed. Place a body piece between the rollers, with the wire in one of the grooves in the top roller; if the circle is too large, depress the back roller, and if too small raise it.

The body will require pulling to the right as it goes through, as there is always a tendency to draw to the left. Shaping and seaming will be the next process and in practice a certain amount of shapin'g has to be done always. Use the side stake to groove the two edges together. Open the wire fold where there is no wire in it and where it has been pressed down by the roller, lay in the piece of wire that projects from the other side and tuck it in smoothly, place it on the tool with the wire part towards the worker, and groove the seam in the way described for the first one.

Edging the bodies may be done with the stock shears or the jenny, or the hatchet may be used when there is no other tool. Edging with the jenny is an easy and quick method. The bottom of the body must be trimmed quite true at the seams, or the edge will be unequal.

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The guide of the jenny is screwed back to leave about J in. The body is held lightly by the wire and pressed from the worker and in towards the guide, but not too hard, or the size of the edge will increase. An edge J in. The bottoms are next marked out to allow as much turn up as there is edge. The size of the bottom, when found and proved correct, should be marked with the compass on the body pat- tern; these marks are not shown in Fig.

Attention can be given now to the small work, beginning with the handle. After cut- ting out the pieces to shape, turn them on the beak iron. Some workmen work with the point of the beak iron pointing away, but others use it with the point towards them. With the mallet bend one edge slightly on the tool, then, grasping the handle and tool together with the right hand, bend the handles round the tool about two-thirds the required distance; then bend the other edge with the mallet as before, and finish bending them round, making the lap about J in.

The flap must be left flat; after the handle is turned it is bent back, and with a small hammer tapped close to the handle. Next, with a hollow punch of suit- able size, punch out some studs and hollow them with the stud boss and punch, or with a stud hammer on the lead piece; these studs must be edged on a small stool, slipped on the handles and soldered.

The flaps of the handles can then be knocked back and fitted to shape. The flaps are then bent down, next turned over, placed on the tool in the centre of the boss, and pressed down each side; this roughly shapes them. They are finished on the extinguisher stake with the mallet, and the outside edges are very slightly bevelled. Cover handles are fre- quently treated in the same way. It does very well for common goods, but good work ought to be wired with 15 or 16 gauge wire. The small work is now ready to be fixed to the saucepan.

The handle is first tacked to the body by a drop of solder placed so as to fix the points of the handle and the flap to the body at the seam that was last grooved; next place the boss in its place behind the handle and tack that also top and bottom. Next solder on the apron; place it so that the point is in the centre of the handle and the wide part just below the level of the top of the saucepan, and fasten it with a drop of solder on the point, then solder along the flap.

Place a rivet on the tool, and on it the saucepan ; tap with the hammer, and the position of the rivet will be shown by a mark. Place the rivet set. Fol- lies may be used for punching such rivet holes, and where much riveting has to be done they are very useful. After riveting, the boss has to be soldered round. Commence at the left-hand side with plenty of solder, well run in at the joint of the handle with the saucepan, and lead the solder down one side of the boss and up the other, well soaking the sides, and then over the bridge of the boss.

Of the cover, the rim is the first part to be made; the pieces for it come off the body. The rim is marked out by means of a home-made tool called a flue-rim. The object of cutting the rims slightly tapering instead of straight is that a better fit may be made, and they are easier to put on and take off. To make the flue-rim, take a pair of long- legged compasses, set them to a radius of 5 ft.

If, instead of the com- passes, string or wire is used, make a loop in one end and place it over a bradawl stuck in the floor, and with another awl at the other end describe the arc; cut the tinplate along the line very carefully, fold over the straightedge, and knock down with the mallet; this gives a short straightedge and flue-rim combined, and a rule also; set out and stamp the figures on it. To mark out the rims, place the flue-rim on the piece of plate to be used as near the top as possi- ble and scribe a line ; with the compasses at the ends mark off the width required for.

The procedure in making a dozen -rims from a sheet of tin is the same. When all the rim pieces are cut out, point one end as shown in Fig. Two pieces can next be sol- dered together, and for this a fairly flat and smooth board will be wanted. Take the flue-rim and with an awl scribe a line across it, place one Fig". The rims must be folded on the hatchet stake, as owing to their curvature it cannot be done in a machine. It is usual to do two at a time, but beginners should try one first. Rims are folded on the inner curve ; a full in.

Go over it twice, then hammer flat on the crease iron and bend round two at a time in the rollers. The ends of them will require round- ing up before tacking to the size of the saucepan. The next process is to edge the rims, which will be done in the jenny, the same as the bodies were. The covers must then be marked and cut out, allowing more margin than for the bottoms be- cause of the doming or hollowing; about J in. The hollowing or blocking of the covers, the next operation, is one which requires much skill and practice to perform successfully.

The block should be of a tough and close-grained wood, such as beech, walnut, or apple, and not less than 15 in. It should be about the height of the bench. If intended to work at it standing, as many do, it may be a couple of inches higher, and if sit- ting down to it a little lower. To get it ready for use, take a good-sized hollowing hammer, and about 3 in. Another hollow may be made, a little shallower than the first. Covers for new work are hollowed up four or six at a time, according to the thickness of the plate. Covers of 1 c and 1 X may be hollowed in lots of six ; when of 1 x x or 1 X XX tinplate, four at a time will be enough.

Before beginning to block up, describe a circle a little less than one-third of the dia- meter. It is a guide to the limit of the hollow- ing, as saucepan covers are not hollowed right to the centre, though a tea-kettle cover would be; see Figs. Begin by grasping the lot of covers at a, Fig. The covers will have hol- lowed considerably, but may present a very puck- ered appearance, which may cause the beginner some misgivings as to his ever being able to gab them smooth; but patience and perseverance will accomplish this.

Having hollowed the lids, next smooth them off ; this is done with a hammer hav- ing a slightly flatter face, especially for the centre part of the cover.

Most workmen, before begin- ning to smooth, shake the covers apart and turn each round a little way so that the puckers are not opposite one another. Begin working from the inner circle outwards on a flat place on the block, and finish at the edges with the hollowing hammer. The flange is now thrown back in the jenny; for the covers under consideration the width will Fig Place the cover between the wheels and screw down, not tightly, and holding the cover the same as for jenny ing up a bottom, work round carefully once; run it round several times, gradually raising the flange till it assumes the shape shown by the section line.

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Do the inner cover — the one nearest the hammer ; first offer the rim to it, and when it is the right size and shows suflicient to allow for the turn up, the other covers can be jennied. To turn over the second edge which covers the flange on the rim see section, Fig. If a rim is too large to get in, the turned-up edge of the cover may be rapped back slightly; and, if necessary, the rims pared a little. After pening down on the flat part of the beak iron, get ready the handle.

The cover handle Fig. The correct position for the handle is found by describing a circle in the centre of the cover, of a diameter equal to the width of the handle outside the flaps. It is bent into semicircular form, the flaps straightened on each side and soldered to the cover by tacking each under the handle.

Put a small rivet through each flap, using one of the round heads or a block hammer fixed in the vice as a support, and the saucepan is then complete. Porringer or Milk Saucepan, — A porringer or milk saucepan Fig. It can be made of tinplate, and the pattern for the outer saucepan a is a rectangular-shaped piece of metal, with a length equal to its circumference, the width being equal to the proposed depth, plus working edges.

This is edged for a grooved seam, wired, turned to shape, and grooved, and the bottom is Fig. The body of the inner saucepan is made of two pieces, the top b and bottom part c shown dotted. The part b has also a rectangular-shaped pattern, having a length equal to that of the outer saucepan, but with a width equal to d e, plus the working edges. This is made without a bottom, but it has a creased edge set off the bottom edge to take the top of c, the other portion of the body. The method of setting out a pattern for c is shown in Fig.

The larger arc is made equal to 3 times e f Fig. Working edges are additional, and must be allowed. This pat tern, after being edged for a grooved seam, is bent to shape and grooved together. An edge is set off the wider end so as to fit tight in the creased edge on b Fig. The handle is riveted in posi- tion as before, and the soldering is now done on the inside, resin being the flux. A lid is now re- quired, and the rim is made to fit each saucepan separately, so that for convenience one lid an- swers for either saucepan.

A hollowed disc is next creased and paned on the rim, after which a small handle is riveted in the centre, as shown in Fig. Saucepan with Tapering Sides. The size will be 3j in. Allow for edges I in. The edges for Fig. Suppose it is a J-in. Clean both sides of the copper thoroughly, and tin one side. This may be done easily as follows: Cover the surface to be tinned with killed spirit, and with a solder- ing-iron melt some solder on it, and work it with the soldering-iron all over the surface. Hold it with a pair of pliers over a gas jet, tinned side up, and, when the solder is all melted, wipe off all superfluous metal with a piece of tow quickly Fig.

Notch the corners as shown in Fig. The edges have to fit into each other when the body is rounded, so it is obvious that one has to be edged up and the other down — see Fig. For the wire at the top, throw off a J-in. Leave about J in. Lay or groove the seam, and solder it inside.

As regards the handle, one might be forged to suit the job in hand. To tin it, file it clean all over, and tin it as described above. Saucepan Covers, — The hollowing of saucepan covers has already been fully described. These covers are made in two shapes, as shown by Figs. The rim pattern is illustrated by Fig. Bronchitis Kettle, — A bronchitis kettle is a Fig. As shown in the ele- vation, Fig. This kettle may be made of tinplate or tinned sheet copper. For the body, cut a strip equal in length to the circumference, and in width equal to the depth of the kettle ; edge for a grooved seam, turn to shape, and groove the edges together.

The body is then edged top and bottom, and the seam sol- dered inside. The top is next cut out, and should be at least two edges larger in diameter than the bot- tom. It is hollowed on a wooden hollowing block, and crease-edged to fit the body tight; but before fixing it to the body, the handle, feeder screw, and spout should be attached.

A boss is fitted and soldered underneath, and a hole cut to allow the spout to pass through, after which the handle is riveted and soldered in position. A hole is also cut in the top, at the back, to take a Fig. These are turned to shape and fitted to each other so that the tube c Fig.

The tube B should now be fitted to the top, the spout being passed through a hole in the han- dle cut to receive it; it is soldered in position to the top of the kettle and to the handle as well. It is soldered to the smaller end of the spout. Clean with turps and whiting, and polish with dry whiting. To prepare the kettle for use, unscrew the feeder screw, nearly fill the kettle with water, re- place the feeder screw, and set the kettle on the fire to boil, placing it in such a position that the rose projects well into the room.

It is usually made of tinplate. Two pieces are required for the body, Fig. When a satisfactory shape has been ob- tained, an edge is set off the bottom, and the seams are soldered inside. Now lay the body on a sheet of metal, mark round, allowing a working edge, and cut it out. This bottom is edged and fitted to the body, after which it is paned on, beaten up, and soldered from the inside. A pair of handles are riveted in position, the heads of the rivets being also soldered over. To ob- tain the pattern, place the kettle on a sheet of metal, mark round, and cut out; and when a wiring edge is set off this, it will be found a nice easy fit.

Before wiring it, set out any suitable design, such as a diamond, and perforate it, as shown in Fig. Flatten the burrs on a bright bench anvil, and take out the buckles with a planishing hammer. These buckles are unavoid- able, but are readily taken out. To remedy this, the outer edge must be proportionately stretched, so as to allow that part which has been perforated to occupy its normal position. This is accomplished by plan- ishing. Work from the centre to the outer edge radially, tapping lightly in the centre, and in- creasing the weight and number of blows as the outer edge is reached.

When this has been done, wire the edge with No. Two handles are required for lifting out the strainer, a pattern for these being shown by Fig. Having cut two to this pattern, wire the edges, and bend to the shape of Fig. For the rim, cut a strip Ij in. The bottom should be edged and flattened before bend- ing, and afterwards made an easy fit; it is then soldered at the seam, and edged at the top. The hollowed top is next cut out, a larger working edge being allowed on the sides than on the ends.

The handle for the cover is then made and riveted in position. When finished, all the parts should be thoroughly cleaned with turps and whiting, and polished with a soft cloth and dry whiting. If the body of a square kettle is to measure, when finished, 9 in. Each notch at f and f' Fig. A hole should also be punched in the front end of the kettle through which the spout is inserted. When working the spout pattern from the ele- vation Fig.

Make the top of the spout pattern along the line at a equal to the circumference of the spout at a Fig. Through the point b Fig. Set off the radius o B Fig. Then transfer the length B c Pig. From e and e' to the centre of the pattern draw lines, which are inclined at the same angle to d e as the base of the spout makes with d e Fig. A small notch cut where these lines join the centre line completes the pattern. To draw the pattern for the top, first draw a square of lOj in. A circle 4 in. The uprights for the handle may be cut from stout brass or copper band to the shape shown by Fig.

The holes for the rivets should then be drilled, and also one at the top of each upright through which the spindle could pass to the oppo- site end. The spindle carries the wood handle, the uprights also being bent to the shape shown by Fig. To make the kettle spout, begin by thinning the long edges by hammering ; then with a stretch- ing hammer, used upon a beak iron, set inwards the two arcs of circles forming the throat. Then work over the underneath part of the spout until the edges e and e' overlap, and then braze this seam.

Now load the spout with lead, and bend the neck at the top of the spout by working it round with a round-faced hammer used on the hollowing block. While the spout is still loaded, file off all spare spelter that may have run through the seams, and with a small hammer work the metal smooth and the spout to the shape required when finished.

The lead is then run out from the spout, a small edge or seating is thrown off round the larger end, and the top is cut with the snips to shape. Then the spout is tinned inside. When making the body, fold up the edges along the top and ends square on the front and back, as shown at g Fig. Fold the long edge at the top of the sides square and outwards, and the bottom edge as for the front.

To form the seam at the corners, hook the end of a side over the end of the front, as shown by Fig. The bottom pattern is a square 9i in. The bottom and seams are then soldered down and along each side of the body, which is then ready for the top to be pened on to it. The kettle top is hollowed on the block. Begin by working the metal down to a slight depth along the four sides. Then take a bullet-faced hammer, and working in a rather deep hole on the block, hollow the corners to the depth required for the top. Then place a side of the top along an edge of the block, and using a hammer with a large and rather flat face, hit the side until it is brought flat and straight along the edge..

Repeat this process on each side. Again using the bullet- faced hammer, work along the sharp shoulder formed by forcing the sides down, and work the metal upon a flat place on the block until the curve of the shoulder of the top is of equal height all the way round it; then carefully work over the whole of the hollowed surface until it is rendered smooth. If the four edges of the top do not rest quite flat, they should be pared true with the snips before the next operation. An edge is next taken up on each side, so that the top will fit closely over the edge at the top of the body, and this edge may be pened down upon the body edge to form a seam, as shown where the top joins the body in Fig.

The small cover is made by first turning the frustum of a cone forming the cover rim Fig. A small flange is then thrown oR round the top edge. The knob is sol- dered in position from the inside of the cover, and a little hollowed circular stud is then placed over the patch of solder, and very neatly soldered to the inside of the cover; or the knob may be fixed with a small nut screwed on the threaded shank of the knob, in which case a stud would not be necessary. Before the top is pened down as described above, the hole for the cover is cut out with circular snips, and a narrow wired rim of the same diameter as the hole is inserted in it, its lower edge being worked over to the in- side of the top with a round-faced hammer.

Rivet the handle upon the top, solder over the rivet heads on the inside, and place the top in position on the body, and then pene it down smoothly. It is then soldered along each edge to render it sound. Such a kettle is best made in copper, but can of course be made in good tinplate. The patterns should be first set out, and then the practical work can be started. It is here assumed that copper is the material used. The body should be thinned along the bottom and side edges by hammering, so that, when lapped over, the thickness of the two edges is but slightly greater than that of the rest of the body.

After the edges are thinned, the bottom of the body should be notched as shown in Fig. Next bend up and down alternately the cramps on the end of the pattern; turn the body round, and place the uncut end of the body in between the cramps, which have been bent to receive it. Now fasten the ends securely by drawing a length of binding wire round the top and bottom of the body, and fasten the ends of the wire by twisting up tightly with pliers.

The open cramps, inside and outside the seam, should be closed down smoothly, but not too tightly. Now lift the body from the fire, and cool it by im- mersion in cold water. Any black scale remain- ing upon any of the cramps round the bottom must be removed by pickling. Remove the binding wire, bend the body upon a mandrel to its proper shape, and then, upon a round, flat-headed stake, knock over inwardly every alternate cramp upon the bottom of the body until each is at right angles to the side of the body.

Place the bottom the edge of which has been slightly thinned in the same manner as adopted for the seams upon the bent cramps, and bend over one cramp on each side and end, to hold it in position The remaining perpendicular cramps can then be closed down smoothly upon the up- right stake, and the brazing process adopted for the seam repeated, the body, while on the fire, being so inclined that the spelter will flow into the cramps upon the edge of body and bottom.

All lumps of spelter that may have run through any of the cramps should be smoothly filed off, and any of the edges of the cramps that may have opened a little should be treated in a similar way. The kettle body is then ready for smoothing and hardening. The seams are first smoothed by hammering, the hammering being continued until the whole of the spelter has been driven into the copper, forming a smooth, strong seam.

The surface of the body and the bottom of the kettle must now be hammered so as to harden the copper and also to render it smooth and bright. Begin by hammering the bottom with a bright hammer upon a flat, upright stake with a smooth surface, beginning at the centre and working towards the outside edge with a regular series of close overlapping blows.

If, after going over the whole of the bottom, it is found to be loose in the centre, hammer round near its edge until the hollow in the centre is drawn down flat. Now hammer the body upon a large smooth mandrel, beginning at the bottom, and work round with regular blows from the bottom of the body to the top until the whole surface has been hammered smooth and bright; the body is then ready for tinning.

It is necessary to protect the outer surface of the kettle from oxidation during the tinning pro- cess, and this may be done by wiping it round with a pad of tow which has been immersed in a strong solution of salt and water, by coating the surface with moist whiting, or with a com- bined solution of whiting, salt, and water, after which the body should be gently warmed until the outside coating is dry. The surface to be tinned should be rinsed with a little clean chloride of zinc killed spirits and then sprinkled over with some powdered sal-ammoniac, after which the body should be heated until a stick of tin held upon its surface will melt.

When this occurs a small quantity of tin should be allowed to melt off the stick, and while in a molten condition, should be quickly wiped round the surface with a pad of wadding, any superfluous tin being wiped out cleanly and smoothly after the whole I I KETTLE MAKING. Should any small patches be left untinned, they may be covered up by rubbing them over with some of the molten tin and a lump of sal-ammoniac while the body is hot. But if the body, before tinning, was quite clean, and was not overheated during the tinning process, such patches will not be found.

The outside protective coating, after the kettle has been cooled, can be removed with a pad of tow moistened with a little hydrochloric acid raw spirits , the pad being quickly rubbed over Fig". Both the outside and the inside of the kettle are then scoured bright with fine sand and water. The spout hole is punched in front of the body; a punch slightly smaller than the diameter of the spout is used, being held inside the body, so that the burr is on the outside.

An edge is next thrown off round the upper part of the body for the top to be pened down upon. Cut out the oval for the top Fig. Cut out the cover hole with the bent snips, Fig. Cast rims for kettle tops are sold by most dealers in coppersmiths' mounts, the section of rim being as shown in Fig. These rims are placed in position as shown, and then soft-sol- dered round on the inside of the top. The top is next swaged around the bottom edge, the swaging forming a small bead of semi- circular section around the edge, and this, when fitted closely over the edge that has already been thrown off upon the body, forms an edge to pene down over the body edge, and also a seating to rest upon the edge of the anvil stake while pening down.

After pening down, the edges are brought down a little more by closing the edge over upon a hatchet stake, or with a swage specially con- structed for this purpose. The seam is then closed down, as shown in Fig. The seam is then soft soldered on the inside of the kettle with a copper bit bent to a suitable shape for the purpose.

The smaller oval Fig. Cut out the spout Fig.

Fasten the two seams in position by means of the cramps, and draw them together closely with binding wire placed round the spout at the top centre and end. Then arrange the spelter along the seam, and braze, afterwards cleaning the spout, as described when dealing with the body.

In order that the neck may be bent without injury to the spout, the latter must be filled with lead. Close the small end of the spout by wrap- ping around and over it two or three layers of stout brown paper ; tie securely, and insert this end of the spout in sand in case the paper should burn through. Then, with an ordinary plumber's ladle, fill the spout with molten lead; when the metal has cooled, remove the paper wrapping and file the seams smooth and round. In a block of lead, punch a hole of the same diameter as the small end of the spout, rounding off the edge on one side of the hole.

Fasten the lead down securely to a support, insert the end of the spout in the hole, and gradually bend it over to- wards the rounded side of the hole until the spout has attained the shape shown in Fig. Should the spout prove so tough that the required shape cannot be completely obtained by manual pressure, a few blows with a mallet while the neck of the spout is held over a beak iron will generally complete the job. The shoulder at the bottom of the spout next requires attention.

Place the curved side of the spout opposite to the shoul der upon a beak iron and then work the square shoulder by hammering upon the tool until it becomes round; after working it to the proper shape, the spout is smoothed by going over the TINPLATE WORK. Next melt the lead out of the spout, and tin it inside. Notch the nozzle of the spout as shown in Fig.

After fitting the spout, soft solder it securely from the inside of the kettle. The handle may be bought ready made. Place it in position in a straight line with the spout, mark the position of the holes and punch them, place the rivet upon a tool similar to that used for knocking up the top, and rivet on the handle.

The rivet heads should be soldered over inside the kettle.

If a bufiing machine is not available, the ket- tle may be hand-polished by scouring with emery powder and oil until all scratches are removed; then wipe the oil off clean, and finally polish with crocus or tripoli. The large oil cooking-stove to be described has an oven which will admit anything not larger than 94 in. The only part of the stove likely to prove troublesome in the making is the burner, and considerable care is required to secure both safety and efficiency.

One pattern only is described, as, once the principle of construction is grasped, the making of other patterns and sizes will not present much difficulty; but this principle must be thoroughly understood before any attempt is made to vary the pattern, otherwise there may be a dangerous failure. It may be straight, or may have elbows in it, or may be bent at right angles and round corners; but if it dips downwards at any part the lamp will most likely burn badly.

The hot air passing out of the chimney is immediately replaced by cold air entering through the perforations in the strainer. The latter moderates the rush of air, steadies the flame, and prevents it from being blown out by any stray puff of wind. It also forms with the dome, when the ends are blocked up, a sort Fig.

The dome compels all the air which is drawn up into the chimney to pass through the narrow slit; and the air, thus forced into contact with the flame, is partly burnt, thus increasing both the light and heat. It will be best to make the burner first. The dimensions given are calculated to suit a 4i-in. Very wide wicks rarely work smoothly and evenly. Make the wick-tubes of stout tinplate, each tube of two pieces, with the sides overlapping, as shown in section in Fig.

When one half is slid into the other a space large enough to admit the wick freely should remain. The length of the tube from top to bottom is Sj in. In one of the halves of each wick- tube holes 4 in. On a piece of brass plate as thick as a new florin mark out J-in. Cut out the circles, and file teeth in them, as shown in Fig. The labour of making these wheels can be lightened somewhat by buying the discs ready stamped out, and, if expense is no object, the wheel-cutter will cut the teeth.

Thread the wheels on a piece of the wire, and solder them on, one wheel opposite each of the holes in the wick-tube. Put the halves of the latter together, and solder them, first clearing off all burrs and sharp edges likely to catch or fray the wick. If the top is not square with the sides, correct it by filing. Cut out a piece of tinplate to the dimensions shown in Fig.

If any other size of burner is being made, the dimensions between the dotted lines A and b must be altered accordingly. Bend up the edges to form a tray, and solder the corners inside. Ill without shake or forcing; and the round holes must be large enough to admit the winding- wheels. Solder the wick-tube in position with Ij in. Put the winder in position, thread one of the discs on each end of the wire, and solder them over H Fig. These small discs should be soldered only tem- porarily until it is seen that the winding-wheels work smoothly and without catching in the slots of the wick-tube.

The wheels should project into the tube equally — far enough to dig about half- Fig. Considerable care is required over this part of the work in order to ensure a smooth and even winding action. The small tinplate discs on the ends of the winder-handle facilitate adjustment. The winder is still too weak to wind up the wick without bending. It must therefore be strengthened by a piece of stout brass, bent and soldered as shown at A in Fig.

A very wide wick may want two or more of these bearings. In default of a milled edge, notching with a file will answer well. A cross-shaped piece of brass would afford a better grip to the fingers and do away with the difficulty of milling. Both burners must be made to wind to the right to raise the wick; the winder must not project more than about 2J in. Solder it on, but do not solder the wick-tube to it. The frame for supporting the strainer must be cut out like Fig. The frame is soldered on. The strainer is made of perforated tinplate, which is sold in sheets 14 in. A good size is 14 holes to the inch linear.

The edges which stand above the long sides of the frame must be bent downwards until horizontal; and, if more than i in. With spots of solder, tack the strainer to the supporting frame and wick-tube here and there, just to keep it in position. Make the burner dome out of sheet brass as thick as can be bent to the curve required.

A slot is cut in the top f in. The top of the dome is in. The two long sides are bent out horizontally. One edge rests on the turned-out edge of the strainer, and the other is bent round a piece of J-in. The ends of the wire are turned down, and, after being bent to fit the sloping side of the base of the burner, are soldered to it.

The entire length of the dome- edge need not be used for the hinge; 1 in. If all is correctly done, the dome will lie flat over the strainer with its ends flush; the slot in the dome will be exactly over the wick, and the dome itself will be capable of being thrown back to allow of trimming and cleaning see Fig. Both ends of the dome are still open. The back end will be closed by the chimney when the lamp is in position ; and the front end must be closed by a piece of tinplate bent round a stout wire frame soldered to the end of the burner-base as in Fig.

Bend up the sides, and solder the corners inside very carefully, as they cannot be subsequently got at in case of leakage. The hole in the top of the reservoir should be i in. Make the bottom of the reservoir to snap on, and solder it carefully. Solder on the handle, observing, as regards both handle and filler, that the reservoirs are rights and lefts.

To fix the burner in position, little fastenings like Fig. The remainder of the oil stove had best be made of the best sheet charcoal iron, which has a bluish, smooth surface. The common coke iron, with a grey, rough, blistered surface, is much cheaper, but will crack if bent sharp, and the sheets are almost invariably buckled badly. The bottom edges must be wired with J-in. The join in the chimney ought to be a folded one, but riveting will do, provided the joint is close. The latter is temporarily riveted over the hole in the chimney so that the two holes coincide, and a piece of mica, not glass, is slipped in between.

The whole arrangement is shown in Fig. The body of the oil stove can now be taken in hand. Bend it up at right angles along the dotted lines to form the sides and back. Turn outwards at right angles i in. The edges are not included in the measurements. The five holes help to keep the lamps cool, and the others to create a draught up the chimney when the stove is in use. The sj aces a and b will pro- vide places for hinges when the edge is wired. Cut out the bottom of the oven Fig. The front edge is wired, and the holes for the chimneys should not be cut clean out, but 4 in.

The nearest sides of the chimneys are 9. Rivet only temporarily at present. Temporarily fix it to the stove, and insert the chimneys. If all is right, the latter will be upright, and there will be a turned-out edge all round the top. Make and fix the bottom of the stove by lap- ping the edges over those of the sides and back, and wire the front edge. Small feet of some sort must be put on the back to compensate for the unevenness caused by the thickness of the wired edge in front.

Insert the lamps, taking great care that the chimneys rest on the tops of the burners, and then mark round the chimney-tops which pro- ject beyond the top of the oven. Take out chim- neys and oven-top and bottom altogether, and, without separating them, turn the marked-off portion of the chimney tops outwards; which done, all can be replaced, the riveting finished, and the mica clamps removed to permit of the insertion of the chimneys permanently fixed. The top of the stove should then present the appear- ance of Fig.

During riveting the lamps must be frequently slipped in and out, for fear of their becoming bound or too loose. The top of the stove is fitted on like the bottom, except that the edges are turned over all round. A strip of sheet iron, 2 in. The unwired edge is riveted to the underside of the stove top, thus enabling the stove to support a large saucepan without caving in. Before finally fixing on the top, provision must be made for saucepans smaller than the holes in the top of the stove, as the lamp wiil go out if anything is stood flat down on the chimney-top.

The usual thing is a perforated Fig. Two covers of sheet iron must be made for the holes in the top of the stove, for use when nothing but baking is being done. Unless the heat is compelled to pass over the top of the oven, and out at the back, baking will be almost im- possible. These covers ought to be sunk in the centre, so as to fit in the holes without sliding about, and they should have a ring, or something similar, by which to lift them. The oven door must fit well to prevent loss of heat. Holes for the ventilator must be carefully marked, and cut out as in Fig.

Riveting must be done over a washer, so that the ventilator can be moved. A short length of wire is riveted into the movable part, and projects through a curved slot in the door, to serve as a handle for opening and closing the v-entilator. Circular sight-holes must be cut in the door to i G.. Make two frames of sheet brass, like those in Fig. Bend up i in. Put a piece of glass in each, and rivet them on the door.

Rivet over washers, to facilitate removal if the glass breaks. The oven door latch is of cast brass. Make two wooden patterns like Figs. A small latch looks rather paltry. A few incised lines improve the appearance. File up the latch casting, and, having fixed on a brass knob, rivet the latch to the door with a large Fio'.

Rivet over the latch a band of brass to keep it in place. The door can now be fixed on the stove. Make two hinges of tinplate like b Fig. Pull them open, and push them on to the places where the wire is left ex- posed on the side of the oven. A thin table-knife in- serted under the hinges will keep them up against the door whilst they are being soldered. The catch for the latch can now be riveted on the side of the stove, and a shelf movable, of course fitted in the oven. In any event, black varnish must not be used, as it smells for a long time when the stove is in use.

Blacklead the stove in the ordinary way.

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