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Jessica Turrell Project duration: The research project is based on the premise that there is huge and largely unexplored potential for innovation within the field of enamelled jewellery. By taking both a practice-led and theoretical approach the aim of the project has been to identify factors that might hinder innovation and present a series of alternative approaches that encourage a more experimental and open-minded approach to enamel. Research Context The practical aspects of the research project were underpinned by theoretical and contextual research into the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice.
This included a wide-ranging visual and literature survey. Web-based research combined with a series of visits to individual practitioners in the USA and Europe as well as to significant exhibitions and collections in Europe, the UK and USA, provided a broad overview of current enamel jewellery practice.
This contextual research led to the identification of a number of contemporary jewellers for whom enamel forms a significant part of their practice. A methodology was developed by which the output of these jewellers was analyzed and then allocated to one of three distinct categories. These were as follows:. Skilled fine — broadly work that concentrates on traditional enamelling techniques to create work for a mainstream or commercial market. New — where the work itself engages with contemporary ideas but where enamel is used simply to add a paint-like layer of colour to the surface of the piece using only basic techniques.
Innovative — where the two practices overlap and the artist is able to demonstrate both a k. A selected group of individuals, identified through this process as falling into the Innovative category, were then invited to submit images and supporting written material to the new Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surfaces in Jewellery database that operates alongside and is complimentary to the existing International Contemporary Vitreous Enamel Archive ICVEA currently held by the Enamel Research Unit at the University of the West of England, Bristol.
Link to Innovation in Enamel Jewellery database. The contextual and theoretical aspects of the project are examined in depth in an article for Craft Research entitled Surface and Substance — a call for the fusion of skill and ideas in contemporary enamel jewellery. The article is available online at the following site: Discussion Forum A variety of approaches have been taken in order to stimulate debate and comment regarding the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice.
The central aim of this forum has been to highlight the potential of enamel as an innovative medium and to stimulate debate about the aesthetic, conceptual and practical considerations that govern the use of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice. The rational for this was to encourage those involved to freely discuss their ideas without the constraints of operating within a public arena. Selected extracts and a summary of the discussions threads can be accessed here.
Case Studies The case studies feature artists who were chosen as representative of a broad and diverse range of approaches to enamel:. Isabell Schaupp , Brooch, Enamel, copper, silver, Christine Graf , The show will begin its tour at Contemporary Applied Arts in London in late , and will then travel to a number of venues across the UK including to the Ruthin Craft Centre in Wales.
The focus of the practical element of the research has been an investigation into the use of innovative and experimental enamelling techniques in the production of contemporary jewellery. Methods and approaches more usually associated with large-scale and panel enamelling and industrial processes have been adapted for use in wearable pieces. This investigation is supported by the development of a range of techniques that allow for the creation of three-dimensional forms that can be successfully enamelled. The practical and technical aspects of the research fall into two main categories, these are the production of three-dimensional forms capable of being enamelled in the round and the development of enamelling techniques suitable for application to these three-dimensional forms.
Initial research involved investigations into the use of three-dimensional forms created using traditional forming, construction and joining methods. The most commonly used joining technique is the use of high melting-point or hard silver solders. The received wisdom is that it is not possible to enamel directly over a soldered joint as the solder will discolour the overlying enamel and can in some cases cause it to come away from the soldered joint.
In order to test this theory, extensive investigations were undertaken into the use of a group of silver alloy solders, which were tested for their stability and the effect that they had on the subsequent layer of fired enamel. Although some solders gave better results than others they all visibly interfered with the enamel they were directly in contact with in some way. As an alternative to the use of solders, fusion and laser welding were investigated.
Both these methods use high levels of accurately directed heat to achieve a fused joint that does not require any additional solder. Although, to differing degrees, both of these techniques created a satisfactory join over which enamel could successfully be applied without too many problems the equipment required was not easily accessible, required outside assistance and was expensive to trial.
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Carola Bauer necklace — Silver, enamel. Jacqueline Ryan 18kt gold and vitreous enamel brooch. Andrea Janosik - Blue Brooch - sIlver and suede - David Bielander — Enzian Brooch — titanium. Farah Bandookwala UK http: Collection of brooches with interchangable magnetic backs. Yoko Shimizu — necklace — resin, pigment, silver. Celio Braga , Brazil Think Twice: New Latin American Jewellery exhibition. Susanne Elstner , brosche. Farrah Al-Dujaili — Necklace — Copper, enamel paint, watercolour pencil, thread — Carolina Gimeno Chile resinas — bracelet. Shannon Carney — medium collar resin necklace.
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Gemma Draper , Barcelona- brooch. Paolo Scura - ring. Over the last few years there has been a significant revival of interest in enamel with a number of contemporary jewellers developing new ways of working with enamel that enable them to create exciting and innovative work. This exhibition showcases the work of thirty jewellers of international standing who, through a varied set of practices, take enamel well beyond its traditional boundaries.
Artists on show at Electrum: Carola Bauer necklace — Silver, enamel, gold- Nazan Pak - Foam brooches. As part of the research project extensive research was undertaken to identify a group of internationally prominent contemporary jewellers whose practice demonstrates an open and innovative approach to the use of enamel.
When complete the database will feature images and supporting information on the work of approximately 30 artists. The aim of the database is to highlight the potential of enamel as an expressive and contemporary medium as well as serving as an important research tool. The database, which is fully searchable, focuses exclusively on enamel jewellery and complements the existing archive ICVEA International Contemporary Vitreous Enamel Archive that is also hosted by the University of the West of England and which includes a broad range of contemporary enamel work.
Currently the database features the work of the following artists: Arts and Humanities Research Council Awarded to: Jessica Turrell Project duration: The research project is based on the premise that there is huge and largely unexplored potential for innovation within the field of enamelled jewellery.