Suit outdoor room or hamptons style decoration 90 cm tall 35cm wide but only 16cm thick suit floor mount or table mount paint needs doing again. Some of the weave has some minor damage. Would be covered up with new paint. Pick up from St Ives Chase cash preferred on pick up. Brand new with free shipping. This item comes with a 12 month warranty and is supported by our customer service team located in Sydney.
Send us a message for more details on how to purchase using PayPal or credit card on our secure ecommerce website. Our friendly customer support staff respond very fast. Made for the outdoors, the Daybed is weatherproof, UV-resistant, eco-friendly and easy to clean with its removable cover. With plenty of sitting and lying space for two, the Daybed also comes with two bonus cushions and a beige cover for a switch of colour if desired. Not least, the strong aluminium frame can hold up to kg while the ext.
Hand Wooven PE wicker Weave Rust resistant aluminium frame Curved Structured canopy for privacy and sun proctection Quality spun polyester cushion covers 5 x Large and 4 x Medium scatter cushions Dimension: Corner of ocean reef road and prestige parade wangara. Open mon to sat 9am to 4pm and Sun 10am to 1pm. Yes Avalible in Stock. Steel Frame Powder Coated steel frame- Brown. Resin Wicker Weave - Brown. Please send us a message to buy. The round rattan set is designed for both indoors or outdoors.
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High quality hand woven narrow-weave rattan with aluminum frame support. If you have purchased 'Brown' willow from a grower, this has already been dried. A good rule of thumb for the soaking time is one day per foot of length, i. If the length of your Willow shoots is 4 foot then soak for four days. Some willow can take a bit longer and it depends a bit on the water temperature too.
When you think the willow is probably soaked enough, as a test bend a rod and see how it responds. At the start of the actual project below, you will be informed of how much willow to actually sort out and soak. You wont need many tools for this project: However for this simple project a pointed stick or 6 inch nail will work plenty well enough as an improvised bodkin, If you don't have a proper bodkin, Just get weaving and you'll work something out when it comes to it. The Project A simple round basket - Step by step The following tutorial is one of many diverse projects w hich feature in my book 'Willow Basketry: A How-To Guide', available to purchase from Amazon, or in eBook form on this website, see here for either.
As mentioned before, it is advisable to use willow which is somewhere between 3 foot and 4 foot in length for this project. Naturally, within the bundle, the willow rods will range in thickness, different thicknesses are suitable for different parts of the basket. Sort the listed materials into separate piles. Then tie the stake material into one bunch and the weaving material into another. Soak for about 4 or 5 days. Materials listed are exact amounts.
Willow Craft 10 Bird Feeder Projects. It's humanlized PE wicker design can satisfy your different demands. Caloundra Area Kings Beach. Now take the next leftmost rod and weave it in the same manner; over two stakes, behind the next and out to the front. Now weave it simply around the stakes; in-front, behind, in-front, behind.
Add in a good amount of extras just to be sure you have enough and to provide yourself with a good selection of rods for use. You could even double the amounts, any leftovers can always be dried off and used later for other projects. For clarity of demonstration I have used a combination of different willows: You do not need to do this From the butt end of each, cut a length 12" 30cm long.
Half of these sticks need to be split at their centre using a knife. Working onto a surface, push the knife into the stick as central as possible. Then pick the stick up and push the blade through. Now turn the knife to open out the split, which needs to be about 2" 5cm long. This is most easily done by first threading the three split sticks onto one non-split stick, then simply push the other two through into place.
Note, it can be a good idea to alternate the thick and thin ends to keep things balanced. Select your two thinnest longest rods to use as weavers. Trim a couple of inches off if they are damaged or very wispy. Insert the tips into the split of the slath as shown. Then, position the weavers so that the next arm of the slath is between them, as shown. Now, bring the weaver from the back up and over the next arm, and the top weaver down behind. Do the same again around the next arm, bringing the weaver from the back up and over, and the top weaver down behind Rotate the slath as you go anticlockwise so that the handling is the same with each stroke.
This will help a lot.
Keep the weavers pulled in tightly as you go. Note that when the weaver from the back comes up, it should come under the weaver resting at the top, and then the top weaver goes down over it. You will need to continue in this way until you have completed two rounds. Position the weavers as if you are about to do a third round as shown. Pull the weave in as close as possible as you go. To get a tight weave you must pull on the weavers firmly with every move. That means, when bringing a weaver up or down.
Once woven, any slack can not simply be pulled out. Trying to claw at the weave to eliminate gaps later will also not work. Continue weaving around and around Splice in new weavers as shown, simply adding a new weaver alongside the old one and continuing.
Wicker is a technique for making products woven from any one of a variety of cane-like wooden chair company that had invented a mechanical process for weaving wicker seats) to form the Heywood-Wakefield of Gardner, Massachusetts. Explore Tischa Wolfie's board "Rattan Weaves" on Pinterest. | See more ideas about Weave, Wicker and Rattan.
Butt ends are replaced with butt ends and tips with tips. After replacing one, weave ahead at least a few moves before replacing the other. The protruding stubs should be trimmed after completing the base. Note, you can weave quite far towards the tip end the thinner end of a weaver, leaving only about 4" 10cm before replacing it. As well as doing the weave correctly, you need to focus on spacing the spokes evenly and keeping them level like a disk. To achieve this, hold the spokes where you want them to be while you weave around them, thus locking them in position.
Crowned means that the underside will be slightly concave. Crowning the base makes it stronger and also gives the basket a rim to sit on. To do this, when the woven area is about 3" 7- 8cm wide, hold and flex it as shown, pushing the centre in with your thumbs. Turn the base around a little and repeat. Weave another row or two and then repeat this procedure again. The crowing can be worked toward or away from you as you weave. While weaving, if you end up with one weaver working towards its tip end and the other working towards its butt, when you replace one of them, add the new weaver in so that it evens things out.
Continue weaving until the base is 8. It is preferable to finish with tip ends.
Lock them off with a single move, threading the weaver which would go next, between the weavers of the previous row. This will keep the other end held in too. The weaver ends should now be cut off very close to the weave. However, the ends must still be resting against a spoke, or have no way of flicking out to the other side of the base. If yours does not look like this, that is totally normal for a first attempt; do not feel hopeless. If you are not satisfied you could always weave another now that you know how Use your medium-thick rods for this.
Remember, the stake material must always be thicker than the weaving material. Before we start, you should notice that each willow rod has a natural curve in it. A basket of this size with spokes spaced as they are will require two side stakes inserting next to each spoke, a total of If there was only one stake per spoke, the overall spacing of the side stakes would be much wider. As a result, the weave on the sides would be very loose. Too many stakes can also be a problem. With you own projects in future, you will need to carefully judge how many stakes a basket requires to achieve a nice tight weave.
It can often be the case that for example, only a few of the spokes need to have two stakes inserting next to them in order to tighten up the overall spacing; the others needing only one. Note, no more than two stakes can be inserted next to any one spoke. You will learn more about all this in the projects to follow. This can be done with a knife or a skilful snip of the secateurs. The cut surface should be on either the back or the belly, and not sideways.
While holding the base with the concave side facing down the underside , push the bodkin deep into the weave beside a spoke as shown. Remove, and then insert a stake belly side down into the weave as far as it will go. Repeat on the other side of the spoke. In this way, insert two stakes next to every spoke. Inserting the stakes belly side down means they will be bent up against their natural curve, which will result in straighter sides. Note, Inserting the stakes back side up instead, gives sides which bow out more like a bowl.
All the stakes inserted. Use your thumb nail as shown. The stakes are held up with either a hoop as pictured which is tied in place , or by simply tying them tightly together. If simply tied, do this high enough that the stakes are not leaning inwards. Also ensure they are not being held in a lopsided manner. The base spokes can now be trimmed back level with the edge of the weave, ensuring that their ends are now further back than the turn-up of the stakes.
The main purpose of this is to begin to secure the stakes upright and also to space them more evenly. Use your average thickness weaving material for this. To begin with, work with the basket lying down on your lap as pictured. Take three similar rods and cut them to the same length. Start with the tip ends.