This is not an article examining all the phases of fashion, but it has to be included to a degree, because women relied on their wardrobes to help create the perfect silhouette of each decade. Note how their hair is built out at the sides. The typical early Victorian era hairstyle was parted down the middle and tied back, often with ringlets or braids at the sides. Washing hair was infrequent, due to the harshness of the soaps, so constant brushing cleaned the long tresses and distributed naturally occurring oil, along with the application of other oils and perfumes.
Women also put puffs under their hair at the sides to give it more volume. This was to create an illusion that their waists were roughly the same size as their heads. Artists made a point of painting their subjects with these proportions.
Women also had hair pieces crafted to be fastened to their heads. In the s curled hair became very popular, because the curling iron was introduced first patented in and more elaborate hair styles were expected. Previous to this curling papers or rags would be worn at night by men too achieving limited success. Women with straight hair who desired waves or curls could achieve excellent results with this new curling iron invention, but the heat was damaging to their tresses and sometimes burned their hair, so the reasonable alternative consisted of a hairpiece with curls and plaiting, creating the illusion of spending hours on their coiffures.
This fad boomed from the late s to about An assortment of Victorian hair pieces made available for sale in catalogues. There were hundreds of styles, and also custom made choices.
They were listed as coiffures complete hairstyles pinned on top and chignons buns and rolls pinned at the nape. Blonde hair was very popular, because it gave young ladies an angelic aura, going nicely with the high moral standards. Brunettes who tried bleaching sometimes ended up with startling shades of red, and dry brittle hair. Dying was achieved to limited degrees using organic compounds like henna, but in the first synthetic dyes were produced from coal tar.
This led to cheaper, stable, enduring, and far more varied colours for fabrics, and long lasting black and brownish options for hair through the s and on. Silver nitrate was utilized to darken hair, and excessive use created a purple shade. It was generally ladies who wanted to hide grey hair who tried the dyes that were available. Bleaching continued with stronger and stronger chemical concoctions. The word shampoo was used throughout the s. It originally meant to wash and massage the body. By the late s it can be found included as a sort of scalp treatment, with a vigorous washing and exfoliating.
Scurf was a common word for dead skin and dandruff, which would be washed or combed out, oils shampooed onto the scalp and brushed through the hair. By the late s, shampoo could mean to thoroughly wash with soap and water, and included the hair and scalp, with oils or grease worked in as well, and people would shampoo their teeth with charcoal tooth powder. Hair wash was the term used for what we would consider shampoo today, marketed from the late s onward, to clean hair and remove dandruff.
By the late s, the word shampoo had evolved into a hair cleaner and washing process, not a body massage or tooth-brushing. Ball gowns, circa s to the s. The ladies perhaps had bare shoulders and necks, but were otherwise covered up.
Arms were often sheathed by mitts fingerless sheer sleeves or long gloves. However, women were removing their body hair anyway. Woman using razors obviously was a common practice, because Lola Montez Marie Dolores Eliza Rosanna Gilbert, advised against it as early as the s. Judging by the amount of products available during the Victorian era, depilatories might have been the preferred method for women.
Sumptuous and expensive bathhouses in cities offered arsenic and quicklime washes which would chemically burn the hair off. Russian steam or vapour baths were available from the early s for those who could afford them, along with other bathing enterprises of various descriptions. Modern Turkish bathhouses more accurately Irish-Roman were opened in Britain starting in , and within a decade the craze spread to every urban centre.
Over of these spas were established throughout the British Isles. Removing hair with a razor was something anyone could do, along with burning hair off with a candle. Almost every woman had a small pair of sharp sewing scissors that served well for trimming. So, the poor would probably remove hair to cut down on smell between infrequent baths, and to aid in keeping body and pubic lice under control, and to ease inspecting for fleas and ticks.
Mothers, sisters, or friends, would help each other and look after removing the eggs of head lice nit-picking at the same time. You need only visit a refugee camp or poor village in an economically undeveloped country to witness this going on today. Meanwhile, wealthy ladies were trying to achieve a goddess-like image, and teaching their daughters to do the same. They did this for hygiene, societal, and personal preference reasons. Most husbands never even saw their wives naked, women were almost always wearing at least a chemise or nightgown with silk hose or stockings.
British beaches were segregated, both sexes swimming nude up until the s, when the bathing costume gained popularity amongst women and men covering up in the late s. A hairless body was naturally associated with youth, innocence, and purity, all desirable Victorian qualities, especially for brides and young wives who were commonly between 16 and 22 years of age.
Only the Realist Movement painted body hair on lower-class female subjects, producing unpopular work that was considered vulgar. Victorian photos revealing a variety of grooming. The top centre is thought to be the oldest nude image, The models appear robust.
Shaved or depilated legs, arms, and armpits, seems to have been the norm for Victorian ladies, perhaps with trimmed nether regions probably for hygiene purposes , and some bare. Of course, women could think for themselves just as they do today, so personal grooming would have come in all foms. The invention of photography proves this from the s onwards. In each decade women posed for nude photos, and by the s bawdy images started appearing.
The range of tasteful to obscene images reveal a variety of grooming preferences. The respectable wife of the Victorian Era became known as the angel in the house, who provided love and comfort, and represented purity and all that was good and gracious. Of course the very pale complexion was yet another part of this standard. As I touched on in my article about cosmetics , middle-class and affluent ladies stayed out of the sun, and powdered themselves with products like rice dust, zinc oxide, or pearl powder, which was chloride of bismuth usually mixed with French chalk talc.
Wedding dresses, from left to right; circa bust 30 waist 22, bust 32 waist 25, circa bust 35 waist 22, and bust 32 waist Busts were often built up with frills and padding, waists had three or more layers bound tight. By the late s and on, corsets were providing a decidedly hourglass figure, cinching in the midriff. How true this is remains dubious, because it would have led to a lot of large grooms with tiny brides. Waist sizes of brides were on average commonly 22 inches 56 cms and as small as 16 inches 40 cm , based on bodices in museums. But remember, these were girls who averaged 5 feet cm tall, were usually in their teens so they were still growing , and even though they were rich, often ate nutritionally poor diets compared to what is available in wealthy countries today.
This, of course, would be their measurements with a corset or boned bodice drawing in their waists a couple inches or so, but also girding several layers of fabric. As women aged and had children, they got bigger, and museums have examples of all sizes. Outer garment sizes are more reliable than undergarments, because there is no way to know how tight a corset may have been tied, while gown bodices were buttoned or closed with hook-and-eye fasteners or, if laced, designed to tie closed neatly at the back, providing a set measurement.
Fashion Plates from the s and s. The corsets provide for more curves. The volume of the skirt shifts from all around to the back. Waists remain remarkably tiny. At the same time, the heroes were usually tall strong lean gentlemen; honourable, diligent, protective, intelligent, honest, dashing knights in exquisite silk suits, but they were allowed to have forgiveable flaws and dark secrets.
Modern Rear Female Form Electronic book text.
Description Details Customer Reviews A Digital artistic gallery featuring modern rear views of the female form. Digital pen and brush used to create amazing contemporary and varied recreations focusing on the hourglass shape. EBook features 41 artistic pen and brushstroke digital images in full color in contemporary settings. Images are fully optimized and every care has been taken to create a truly tasteful, yet seductive, gallery for your viewing pleasure.
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